One of the recent cocktail trends that is on the rise is the blurring of the lines between kitchen and bar. The latest example is a collaboration between Hope & Sesame speakeasy bar in Guangzhou China and Mode Kitchen & Bar at Four Seasons Sydney in a sensational pairing of a native food menu with food-inspired cocktails.
Co-owners Bastien Ciocca and Andrew Ho of Hope & Sesame visited Sydney for a series of bar takeovers, showcasing their expertise in food-inspired cocktails and the art and science behind pairing cocktails with food.
During their Australian tour, Mode Kitchen & Bar hosted a delightful lunch event that demonstrated cocktail flavours derived from cooking-inspired techniques paired with a native Australian food menu by head chef Francesco Mannelli.
One of the best parts of the event is learning first hand from the team about the thought process behind the pairings while sitting up and close at the restaurant’s bar counter.
Raw of Yamba king prawns, green tomatoes & muntries berries is paired with the Garden Highball, a tall and refreshing combination of Chivas 12 yo, Seedlip Garden 108, Tomato & Basil Soda. The low ABV drink is very sessionable and an umami take on the classic whisky highball using Chivas 12 yo as a base spirit. Seedlip Garden adds a vegetal touch to a creamy dish, while the tomato water infused with basil, shallots and garlic provides a delicious umami element that pairs elegantly with the raw prawns.
For the next course, liquid nitrogen is used to shock the basil leaves. Andrew Ho refers to it as a “nitro muddle” which intensifies the flavour and reduces oxidation, a technique that is well suited to preparing a mojito.
Wood-roasted Moreton Bay bug, kelp & karkalla is paired with Pineapple, made with Flor de Cana Coconut, Clarified Pineapple & Lemon Juice, Chai Liqueur, Basil. The fresh & low ABV cocktail is best described as a clarified Pina Colada with a house-made redistilled chai liqueur. The just-cooked sweet bug meat on half shells along with the umami note from the kelp pairs well with the coconut and rum, lingering on the palate with a gentle note of anise. This combination of coconut and crustacean takes the taste buds on a tropical holiday.
For the third course, another kitchen technique is used in the preparation of the cocktail.
Large blocks of ice are curiously dipped in melted white cocoa butter and coconut oil.
The main course of Tasmanian pepper crust Kangaroo loin & wilted Warrigal greens is paired with Beets, made with Flor de Cana 4 yo, Del Maguey Vida, Beets & Raspberry, Lime.
Several elements come into play in this pairing, arguably the favourite on the menu. Mezcal and beetroot juice add smokiness and earthiness to the peppered meat while the raspberry contributes a sour element which cuts through the richness of the kangaroo.
The Beets cocktail is served over an ice cube dipped in melted white cocoa butter and coconut oil. Its purpose is twofold, to chill the drink without dilution and to contribute a textural element as it warms in the glass – a fine example of a culinary cocktail that can stand on its own.
The last course takes Applebush, white chocolate & macadamia and pairs it with Spicy Not Spicy, made with Flor de Cana 4 years, Sanya Yellow Chilli, Passionfruit, Lemon, Egg White.
Starting with a rum base, the cocktail is essentially a chilli rum sour. The Sanya yellow chilli is one of the most fragrant chillis in the world. Here, it is redistilled to capture all the fruitiness without the heat or spice. Passionfruit puree is added along with lemon juice and egg white to create a sour style drink that pairs with the white chocolate and macadamia in the dessert.
For an in-depth article on Hope & Sesame’s approach to pairing cocktails with food, the tools and techniques they use for food-inspired cocktails and the best flavour pairings, refer to this article here.
Photography © by Gourmantic – Copyright: All rights reserved.
