Nikkei Bar & Restaurant Surry Hills (Review)

Nikkei bar and restaurant from the team behind Tokyo Bird, Sando, Osaka Trading Co. and Chinatown Banchō bar has opened in Surry Hills.

Taking over the site that was formerly Bodega, Nikkei offers a modern, shared style of its namesake Japanese-Peruvian cuisine, alongside a 40-strong wine list and cocktails influenced by the flavours of Peru and Japan.

Nikkei’s kitchen is headed by Lucas Cerullo David, recently head chef at Osaka Trading Co., whose Brazilian background and Japanese izakaya-style will set the tone for a modern drinking and dining menu. He is joined by Justin Kim, who brings more than seven years’ experience in sushi and Japanese dining to the seafood-focused menu.

“Nikkei refers to Japanese immigrants living in foreign countries,” said owner Jason Ang. “But more specifically in Peru it also refers to the food of their Japanese immigrants, which has developed over more than a century using Japanese cooking techniques and flavours with local Peruvian produce.”

The 55-seat venue comprises a bar entry on one side with a feature wine cabinet wall adjoining the dining room which has an open kitchen, counter seating and a 12-seat communal table made from a slab of camphor.

The restaurant is led by Marco Oshiro Giron as Venue Manager (previously Osaka Trading Co, Tokyo Bird, Lucky Suzie, BLACK Bar & Grill) whose Japanese-Peruvian heritage partly inspired the concept. He is joined by Group Sommelier Phil McElroy (previously at The Source Restaurant at Tasmania’s MONA, Sydney’s Firedoor and Sokyo), Reuvin Lim (previously Tayim, Tequila Mockingbird, Sake Double Bay, Cho Cho San) on the floor and Xander Ramirez (previously Tayim, Lucky Suzie, Bentley Bar & Restaurant) in the bar.

We highly recommend that your visit starts at the bar to experience a range of cocktails with unique flavours that may be a little unfamiliar but very tasty and food-friendly. The drinks at Nikkei bring unique Peruvian-Japanese flavours including pisco, anisado, chicha morada (an Andean purple corn drink), oregano tea and quinoa milk as highlighted in our feature article on the Nikkei cocktails here.

The food menu at Nikkei is designed to be shared, with 2 to 3 small plates and one large plate between two persons. While everything on the menu will tempt, don’t hesitate to ask the team if some of the ingredients don’t sound too familiar.

The 40+ wine list at Nikkei features Australian, South American, Spanish and French wines, most with a coastal, maritime influence; tying in with both Japan’s and Peru’s affinity with seafood and the sea. We highly recommend to leave yourselves in the hands of sommelier Phil McElroy who brings a wealth of knowledge and a welcome breath of fresh air to his wine recommendations.

Start with the swordfish ceviche, a fresh and vibrant entrée with leche de tigre, sweet potato, avocado, mango, Spanish onion, chilli and coriander. Pair it with 2019 Mon Tout Rosé from the Margaret River. The chardonnay dominant wine with pinot noir and Grenache drinks like a white wine with a rosé bouquet and complements the superb flavours in the dish such as the coriander and a touch of heat from the chilli.

The Mushroom Tiradito brings a medley of shiitake, shimeji, enoki mushroom and combines them with Jerusalem artichoke and nori crackers for texture. The 2016 Hearts of Oak, a biodynamic chenin blanc from WA highlights the umami and earthy flavours of the dish along with the nuttiness of the Jerusalem artichoke with a creamy, toasty vanilla note.

Tuna Causa is essentially a tuna tartare with ume kosho, sweet potato and avocado. This sweeter and creamier style of tartare benefits from the coriander oil and the texture from the leek. The 2018 Stargazer ‘Tupolo’, a white blend from the Tamar Valley brings a floral note to the dish and cuts through the creaminess from the sweet potato.

Let the aromas from the Hapuka Sudado with roasted peppers, coriander, pearl couscous, roast capsicum, and coconut cream tantalise you. The firm-fleshed fish is beautifully cooked, flavoursome and moist, and the couscous soaks up the delicious sauce. The 2017 Fall from Grace ‘la madrina’, Montepulciano from South Australia adds a touch of acidity that complements he flavours in the sauce. We’re told the hapuka is nearing the end of its season and will be replaced by blue eye trevalla.

For dessert, order the Sweet Potato Picarones, chicha morada & cola syrup, roasted sesame butter, quinoa ice cream and pair it with a glass of 2013 Vaza Crianza Rioja from Spain for that touch of raisins on the palate.

If there’s one thing to be said about Nikkei, the first experience leaves you wanting to come back and try more, be it cocktails, or the food complemented by the wine recommendations.

Nikkei Bar & Restaurant
216-224 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010
https://www.facebook.com/nikkeisydney
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 10pm; Friday lunch from 12pm to 3pm.

Originally published 14 November 2019. Updated 26 November 2019.